New Story Up on Okra: Free the Hops

Here is a sample:

“When Free the Hops approached the state legislature suggesting updates to the beer laws, the biggest obstacle was the legislator’s lack of education. Initially, the legislature did not understand Free the Hops’ goals. One legislator believed that if the 6% maximum alcohol content was increased, InBev (it is very hard for a native St. Louisan to write that) would flood the Alabama market with 80% alcohol Bud Light, exponentially increasing drunk driving and underage drinking. FTH had to explain that InBev (cringing still) was not about to change the formula of Bud Light to corrupt the people of Alabama. Instead, micro-breweries like Great Divide and Terrapin would be able to enter Alabama and provide more choice for Alabama beer drinkers.”

Find the rest here: http://southernfood.org/okra/?p=2338

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Barbecue Chicken Pizza

Ingredients
A few tablespoons Bone Suckin’ Sauce (depends on how sauce you like your pizza. I like mine saucy)
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon olive oil + 1 tablespoon Olive Oil + 2 tablespoons Olive Oil
1 Vidalia onion, diced
1 red bell pepper, cut into thin strips
2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, pounded flat (I put the chicken into a zip-lock bag and then used the same skillet I cook with to smash the chicken flat)
1/2 cup mozzarella cheese (may need more, depending on how much cheese you like on your pizza)
1/4 cup three cheddar cheese mix (ditto above parenthetical)
Salt
Pepper
Basil
Oregano
1 Mama Mary’s thin and crispy pizza crust

Directions

1.) Place minced garlic into 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Let the garlic infuse the olive oil while you do everything else. Pre-heat oven to 475

2.) Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium – low heat. Add diced onion, salt and pepper to taste. Cook for 10 or 15 minutes.


3.) Add strips of red bell pepper to onions, cook for 10 minutes. Turn heat to medium.

4.) Heat the additional 2 tablespoons of olive oil, season chicken on both sides with salt and pepper. Add chicken to pan when hot, cook for 8 minutes, turning once.

5.) Watch the onion and pepper mixture; make sure it does not burn. Stir frequently, if the mixture is not browning, turn up the heat a bit. You’ll have to eyeball it, remove from heat once the peppers and onion are brown and caramelized.

6.) Let chicken cool after its cooked, then cut into large dice. You will have extra chicken and onion/pepper mixture, so keep it and use in a pasta sauce or for a quesadilla later in the week.

7.) Brush the garlic infused olive oil onto the pizza crush. Then add the sauce and diced chicken. Season liberally with basil and oregano; add onions and peppers.

8.) Sprinkle a light layer of mozzarella cheese, then add the cheddar mixture.

9.) Bake in the oven for 8-10 minutes, the pizza is ready when the crust turns brown and the cheese has completely melted.

10.) Let cool for a bit, sprinkle with parsley and slice.

Serve with chili flakes and parmesan cheese.

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New Post on Okra

New story about the Front Porch Revival is up on Okra. Here is a sample:

In May of 2011, three separate tornado systems crossed the state of Alabama, bringing destruction throughout the State. The Tuscaloosa tornado received the heaviest coverage, especially because of Alabama’s National Championship football team, but communities across the state suffered deeply. Chef Leo Maurelli, then at the Hotel at Auburn University, wanted to help. Chef Leo reached out to his entire network – chefs, brewers, cheesemakers, farmers, producers – to put on an event called Chefs to the Rescue. There were 24 chefs, breweries and wineries that participated, and 100% of the funds raised were donated to the tornado relief effort.

At the close of the event, Chef Leo and the participants looked around and realized an incredible team was assembled. The chefs, the breweries, the winemakers, all came together under one banner, while still representing their own restaurants and businesses. This gave Chef Leo an idea: what if the membership didn’t treat the tornado relief event as a one-off? What if there was a supportive group of like minded chefs, brewers, and producers who could support each other’s initiatives, spread the word about each other’s projects, come together for more events in the future, and overall promote Alabama food and culture?

Check out the rest here: http://southernfood.org/okra/?p=1964

 

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Hastings v. Flay: A Friend Wins Iron Chef

I had the privilege of watching Rob McDaniel, a friend from the lake and all around great guy win Iron Chef last night. There was a viewing party at his restaurant, Springhouse, and 100 or so friends, family and well-wishers gathered to watch the premiere of Chef Chris Hastings v. Iron Chef Bobby Flay. Rob worked with Chris at Hot and Hot Fish Club in Birmingham before coming to the lake, and when Chris was asked to appear on the show, he asked Rob and Sedesh Boodram – both former chef’s de cuisine at Hot and Hot – to be his assistants. We knew Rob had been on the show for months, but only he knew the results.

All I knew before coming to the restaurant was that Chris, Rob and Sedesh trained extensively. I wish they’d produced a video montage. Footage of Chris and Rob and Sedesh, at the beginning running into each other in the kitchen, dropping pots, finished dishes ending up in the garbage can, downcast eyes while Idie Hastings shakes her head, gesturing toward the stop-watch. Then, as the music hits it’s second chorus (You’re the best – AROUND), things start to click. They are moving faster, no collisions, dishes are tasting good, eyebrows are raised, maybe even a few stray high-fives. Finally, as the music comes to a close, you see all three walk out of the kitchen, Rob, then Sedesh, then Chris, who looks back over his shoulder one last time as he walks out door. He turns out the lights, the music fades. The challenger is ready.

Before the broadcast, Rob thanked everyone for coming out and supporting him

Entering Springhouse, a Bear hug from Rob and flat bread pizza greeted me, a preview of what the night would offer. The kitchen put out some great light hors d’oeuvres and there was a contagious atmosphere of bonhomie in the room. I hugged people I would usually shake hands with, flattered the women and back-slapped the men. The Truck Stop Honey Brown Ale flowed like the wine, a nice selection of whites and reds pre-poured and laid out across the restaurant’s bar. When the episode started, conversation ceased. All eyes turned toward the enormous screen dangling from the rafters of Springhouse’s vaulted ceiling.

The crowd erupted the first time we saw Rob during the introduction, a reaction that would be repeated each time the camera panned over to his station. The crowd also roared when the mystery ingredient was announced. Sausage. An ingredient that wouldn’t flummox our Southern chefs. I asked Rob if they had any idea what the ingredient would be, and he told me “some, but no.” I also asked if they had any time after the announcement of the ingredient, but before the clock started ticking, to discuss the menu. “No,” he told me, it’s all on the clock.” What you see during that 60 minutes is everything that happened.

And what a 60 minutes it was. Chris and crew moved through the preparation of the meal with an easy calm, the product of their considerable preparation and training. Bobby Flay looked a bit off: his dishes seemed tasty but simple, and his assistants didn’t appear ready for prime-time, burning ingredients and bungling batters. I wondered as we watched just how much time Flay spends preparing for these challenges, or even cooking these days, now that his celebrity is so prominent (bidding wars with the ruler of Dubai? Really? ).

One thing you couldn’t question was the passion of team Alabama. They brought the South with them, from ingredients to attitude, and they kept it together with characteristic grace and class. As the contest went on, a strange phenomenon could be observed. The whole room began inching closer to the front, where Rob was standing. Like heliotropic plants, we all wanted to get closer and closer to the man cooking his heart out on the screen. By the end, the 100 in the room became a clump, almost one. As the last seconds ticked away the look of exhaustion/pride/accomplishment on the faces of Chris’s team would have been victory enough. They gave it their all. Now it was up to Romeo Must Die‘s Anthony Anderson to decide whether or not the Iron Chef would fall.

"You Da Man" "No, You Da Man."

Once the judges finished flaying Flay, another cheer. His dishes did not impress. There was an opening. We cheered when Anthony Anderson had a second glass of moonshine, we booed when the judges questioned the sausage flavor of the bouillabaisse, we swooned over the sausage stuffed rabbit, wishing for a sample to judge for ourselves. When Wo Fat told us that the competition was decided by only”one sweet point,” there was a very long pause. While the camera panned between Flay and Chris, there was time to think about what must be going through the challengers’ minds. Nothing would be different, but everything would change.

“Chef Hastings”

We threw up our hands, screamed, hugged, cheered, reached out for champagne. When Rob’s Dad pulled him in for a hug, both men crying, we cried too.

VICTORY

Once everyone cleared out of Springhouse, we went to Rob’s house for the afterparty. After some fireworks – and a moonshine-aided fireworks mishap – Rob walked off of his porch toward the lake, where a woodpile doused in gasoline waited for him. He was going to start the evening’s bonfire with a flaming arrow.

Towel + Gasoline + Zip Ties + Lighter = Flaming Arrow

I didn’t know whether shooting a flaming arrow was another of Rob’s life-long dreams finally realized, and it wouldn’t have been appropriate to ask. Tonight he won Iron Chef. It was his world; we were merely living in it.

A moment of reflection by the fire

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First Annual Mini-Burger Contest in Roba, Alabama

Last weekend some friends of mine I grew up with in St. Louis came to visit Alabama. The purpose was a family friend’s rabbit hunt, and I wanted my Northern friends to enjoy a weekend of dogs, guns, woods, pick-up trucks and draft beer from a truck stop.  To further liven things up, we decided that instead of a more traditional lunch, all of us would compete in the first annual “Mini-Burger Challenge.”

Inspired by our love of sliders of all sorts, there were no rules other than some kind of meat in between a miniature bun or roll. This meant no tacos or wraps, but anything else counted. Contestants were limited only by their  creativity and ability. The scoring for the contest was based on name, creativity, taste/appearance, and degree of difficulty. There was a one-hour time limit, and all prep and cooking had to be done in that time. Below are recipes for the winning burger, as well as the recipe for remoulade I used on my catfish sliders.

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The kitchen was a wild mess while we prepped. Ingredients were flying around as we danced in between each other getting our dishes ready.

I was the first contestant, and I went with a catfish slider known as “The Bottom Feeder.” I cut the catfish filets into small triangles, salted and peppered them, and then dredged them in egg, milk, Creole mustard, and Crystal hot sauce. Then they went into Creole seasoned cornmeal, followed by a dip in the fryer. To top it off, I made a remoulade cole slaw. The remoulade is the best part of the dish, and was a real hit with the judges and contestants. It’s easy to make and delicious:

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My sliders coming together before the judges consumed them.

Ingredients

1/2 Vidalia onion

1 celery stalk

1 cup ketchup

3 tbl fresh squeezed lemon juice

1 tsp Creole mustard

1/4 cup prepared horseradish

1 cup mayonnaise

2 tsp Creole seasoning (use whatever kind you want)

1 tsp Lawry’s seasoned salt

1 tsp minced garlic

Directions

Blend onions and celery in a food processor until small but not completely pureed. Place the onion and celery mixture in a mixing bowl. Add the remaining ingredients and mix well.

This recipe will make two cups. Best if made at least 1 day in advance will hold for 1 week in the refrigerator. I toss it with angel hair cabbage at the last minute so the cabbage doesn’t lose its crunch. Delicious. 

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The second contestant was my friend Turner Peters. His burger was the “Where’s the Bacon Burger,” and he mixed some very good country style bacon into his ground beef. He cooked the bacon first, then used the bacon fat to caramelize his onions for about 45 minutes while he did the rest of his prep. He then cooked his burgers in the same bacon grease a few at a time, then doubled up the patties on the mini buns.  A bit like White Castle, but with quality ingredients. His burgers probably paired better with wine than the original.

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Lettuce, tomato and mustard, a classic.

John Curtis Fisher was our Atlanta entrant, and he went Southern all the way. He grilled his burgers hot over wood, then covered them with home-made pimento cheese. They were excellent, and made me wish I’d done a fried green tomato with pimento cheese burger, I’ve had one at Springhouse on Lake Martin, and that burger is a winner no matter who’s judging. Don’t tell anyone, but I’m going to go that route next year.

Our winner for the day was Tom Cohen’s 4-B burger, blackened bison with candied bacon and blue cheese aioli. If the name alone doesn’t tell you why he won, the ingredients below will:

Burger

1.5lb Bison Meat

1/4 cup Onion

2 cloves Garlic

1 Egg

Dash Worcestershire sauce

Mini-bun of your choice

 Blue Cheese Aioli

Mayo, lots of blue cheese, really impossible to use too much, fresh chopped garlic, splash of olive oil, squeeze of lemon, salt, pepper, Chipotle Chili Powder. Mix and taste, adjust ingredients accordingly.

 Blackening Seasoning

  • 2 tablespoon paprika
  • 2 tablespoon dried thyme
  • 2 tablespoon onion powder
  • 2 tablespoon garlic powder
  • 2 teaspoons salt
  • 2 teaspoons black pepper
  • 2 teaspoons white pepper
  • 2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • 2 teaspoons dried oregano
  • 2 teaspoons dried basil
  • 1 teaspoon ground cumin

Candied Bacon

  • Coat bacon in brown sugar and cayenne, cook for 10-15 minutes at 3500

Directions

Brown the onions and garlic in olive oil, let stand to cool for a bit.  Add the browned onions/garlic to the meat along with ½ a beaten egg, couple splashes of Worchester, salt, pepper, and about 2 tablespoons of the blue cheese.  Form into patties then coat with the blackening seasoning mix.  Finally, grill them over an open flame until done.

 Assemble burger with aioli and bacon on the mini-bun.

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Tommy explaining his burgers to the judges. Don't question his eloquence.

The judges were blown away by the deliciousness of Tommy’s burger.  In between bites, they credited the subtlety of the flavors, the way the aioli mixed with the candied bacon to give the burger a sweetness and tang missing from the other entries. They loved it, and after trying everyone’s I have to agree with the judges. Make this burger.

To the victor went the spoils, a crown of burger wrappers, condiments and other random things found at the Union Springs, AL McDonalds, topped with a burger-shaped doggie toy.

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He wore this hat in the airport for the trip home to St. Louis. He met dozens of people in the Montgomery airport, all of whom wanted to know how he came to possess such an interesting hat.

All in all, it was an awesome time. We fed around 30 people an excellent lunch, and it was much more interactive than making ham sandwiches and eating left-over casserole.  Next time you have a big group together, come up with a food contest, you’ll have a blast.

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Post-contest, we relaxed on the porch, drank beer and enjoyed all of the burgers the judges and spectators weren't able to eat.


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Key West Article up on Okra

My latest peice for Okra Magazine is up on Okra:

In Cape Town, South Africa they call happy hour drinks “sun-downers,” as in “those drinks consumed while enjoying the sunset.” So instead of saying, “lets go to happy-hour,” you would hear “want to meet for sun-downers?” The South Africans have this right, calling it happy-hour is aggressively hokey. Happy-hour feels like an HR approved slogan, something you can put in an email that won’t violate your company’s technology usage policy. I’m declaring 2012 the year of the sun-downer. Say it out loud, emphasize the second word, use a slight British accent. See, you love it. Everyone does. Here lies “Happy-Hour” R.I.P. 2012.

Key West is famous for it’s sunsets, and rightfully so. Since, as alluded to above, sun-sets are more enjoyable when accompanied by alcohol, it is of primary importance that you begin thinking about the bar where you’ll enjoy the sunset by 4:00 p.m. (adjust time accordingly if not visiting in Winter). If you don’t start thinking about the sunset until 5:00 p.m., or (gasp!) 5:30, all of the good tables will be occupied and darkness will fall before the bar gets around to preparing your first sun-downer, negating the entire point of the exercise. We found two excellent options, “Louie’s Backyard” and “The Top” at the La Concha Hotel (Crowne Plaza) Your present location at 4:00 pm will dictate your choice.

To see the rest, click here: http://southernfood.org/okra/?p=1556

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RSA Review: Commerce Cafe

It occurs to me that some background is necessary before getting into the rankings at the Commerce Café. RSA stands for Retirement Systems of Alabama, and it is the state employees pension fund. Its sort of like CalPERS except it isn’t run by complete morons. One of the RSA’s most visible investments, outside of the Robert Trent Jones Golf Trail, is a number of office buildings and hotels in downtown Montgomery. If you look at this picture of the skyline, and a building has a green roof, the RSA built it.

Clumped there in the middle are most of the RSA properties

These buildings house government and private offices of all sorts, and while I don’t know how other states have invested their money, this seems like a best practice. It’s an investment in the future of Montgomery, and without the RSA’s investment, there is no way the city would be on its current upward trajectory.

Now, back to the cafeterias. Today I ate at the Commerce Café, the cafeteria on the second floor of the Commerce Tower.

It's always sunny in RSA promotional photos

The Commerce Center was one of the first RSA buildings, and you can see from its architecture that the full RSA style has not yet fully developed.

Each flag represents a country engaged in commerce in Alabama. Not sure what Jamaica is doing in there.

Wait until later this week and you’ll see the more typical “antebellum meets ancient Egypt” style on full display. Now, on to the review

1.) Food Quality – 5 out of 10
Today I ate a canteloupe stuffed with chicken salad, some sweet tea and a cookie.

It's an attractive presentation

The chicken salad wasn’t bad, but it was very one-dimensional. All I could really taste was mayonnaise, chicken and grapes. The salad could have used some more celery and onion, and it wouldn’t have hurt to throw in a dash or two of red wine vinegar and/or hot sauce. It was just a bit flat.

The canteloupe was a bit under-ripe. Also, I probably have Listeria now, totally forgot about that until after I’d eaten about half of it. Oops.

2.) Décor – 5 out of 10
Like many things from the 90s, its hard to imagine why someone thought this building looked good. Think of Julia Louis-Dreyfus in Seinfeld. She is much better looking today than she was in the 90s, and it’s all because she updated her look. The 90s were just bad. If the RSA spent a little bit of money and removed some of the weird carpeting, bad artwork and tile, the place could look alright. There is a great deck, great windows and generally a good flow to the place, but it looks doubly dated because of its 90s style.

A bit dated... and institutional, no?

3.) Friendliness/lack thereof – 9 out of 10
Brunetta is the queen of this cafeteria, and there is no one friendlier. She knows everyone’s name, usually can guess what you want to eat, and serves it all with a smile. The other folks in there are pretty good too, especially the cashiers.

4.) Ambience – 2 out of 10
This place simply does not feel great. It feels dowdy and old rather than sleek or modern. More hospital cafeteria than student union, you don’t feel like you should linger after finishing your meal. Maybe that is the point – if most of the people eating in the cafeteria are government employees, and a branch of the government owns the place, you would think they would want people to get up and go back to work. Never a good idea to give government employees a place where they feel like lingering. Trust me, they will.

5.) Price/Value 3 out of 10
I ordered an ice tea, a stuffed cantaloupe, a cookie and a packet of oyster crackers and ended up spending around $8.00. That seems like a lot to me for fresh fruit and an ice cream scoop worth of chicken salad. Maybe you Yankees in DC and NYC think that is the best deal you’ve ever heard about, but for Montgomery, that is a bit high. I’m interested in seeing if I’ve been eating in the high-rent cafeteria all this time, tomorrow will tell.

6.) Variety 9 out of 10
This is where the Commerce Café shines. Burgers, chicken salad, tuna salad, chicken fingers, chicken enchiladas, pork chops, greens, butter beans, salads, apple pies, cookies, soups, turkey wraps, chicken livers, chicken gizzards, and potato casserole. The offerings at the Commerce Café are as diverse as the clientele. Soul food, meat and potatoes, and salads for the calorie conscious, Commerce Café meets anyone’s lunchtime demands.

7.) Other – 7 out of 10
Celebrity sighting! Morris Dees, founder of the Southern Poverty Law Center was lunching at the Café when I entered this morning. If you aren’t familiar with his work, hit the link.

You probably won’t believe this, but Corbin Bernsen played Dees in Line of Fire, the made for TV movie about Dees’s life. Don’t remember who Corben Bernson is?

Great line from the movie review: “Line of Fire is elaborately produced and hits all the right emotional buttons, but falls short of perfection thanks to stereotypical villains and excessive melodrama.” I have to imagine that if Corbin Bernsen was the star, there was a little bit more than stereotypical villains and excessive melodrama that prevented the movie from achieving perfection. Also, stereotypical redneck villains are the best kind of villains; the New York Times really is elitist.

I’m glad I created this “Other” category for unexpected moments like these.

Total: 40/70

Not the greatest score for the Commerce Café, but I’ll still probably eat here once a week. Unless of course I’m blown away by tomorrow’s lunch at Plaza Terrace and Grill. We’ll see.

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